What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveBentonite
AbsorbentPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTetrasodium EDTA
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantSpirulina Maxima Powder
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingBenzoic Acid
MaskingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeTocopherol
AntioxidantBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingWater, Kaolin, Bentonite, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Bisabolol, Spirulina Maxima Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol, Benzyl Salicylate
Water
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveBentonite
AbsorbentAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientLithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingLavandula Hybrida Oil
EmollientCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingSclareolide
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingJasminum Officinale Extract
MaskingJasminum Sambac Flower Extract
MaskingWater, Kaolin, Bentonite, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, CI 77891, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sclareolide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Learn more about BentoniteCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolThis extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.
Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.
They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.
The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.
Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.
Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.
Learn more about Cucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilKaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Learn more about KaolinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water