What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientVp/Va Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolysilicone-11
Cellulose
AbsorbentHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningRhamnose
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningCassia Alata Leaf Extract
AstringentMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSorbitol
HumectantVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantGentiana Lutea Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isohexadecane, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Vp/Va Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Polysilicone-11, Cellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Rhamnose, Ectoin, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Sorbitol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingSqualane
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Isopropyl Isostearate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Squalane, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Adenosine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis ingredient is often marketed as Pro-Xylane. It was developed by L'Oreal in 2006 and comes from xylose, a natural sugar extracted from beech wood.
In L'Oreal's published chemistry work, this ingredient was identified as a strong activator of sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis.
This ingredient helped skin make more of its own natural “water-holding” molecules (called GAGs) in lab studies and skin models, which are important for keeping skin plump and hydrated. It also supported proteins that help anchor and support the skin’s layers.
Most human studies look at full skincare formulas rather than the ingredient on its own.
In one 12-week study, a facial serum containing Pro-Xylane was linked to improvements in skin hydration, firmness, and the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
In a more recent study, a product with hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol plus niacinamide was used after laser treatments and showed visible improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin appearance within about 8 weeks, along with signs that the skin was calming and repairing itself.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl TetrahydropyrantriolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water