What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Propanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Sorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Trehalose
Humectant
Vinyldimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Arginine
Masking
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Calamine
AbsorbentHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbityl Laurate
Emulsifying
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningJasminum Officinale Flower Water
MaskingGlycol Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Betaine
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPrunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil
Masking
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingProtease
Exfoliating
Disodium EDTA
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trehalose, Vinyldimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Arginine, Madecassoside, Calamine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbityl Laurate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Synthetic Beeswax, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Water, Glycol Stearate Se, Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Protease, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Urea 5%
Buffering
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea
Skin ConditioningC30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emollient
Cocoglycerides
Emollient
Viscum Album Fruit Extract
SoothingCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Phytosterols
Skin Conditioning
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMethyl Caprooyl Tyrosinate
Skin ProtectingBisabolol
Antioxidant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Tropolone
Skin ConditioningWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Urea 5%, Caprylyl Methicone, Propanediol, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cocoglycerides, Viscum Album Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosterols, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Methyl Caprooyl Tyrosinate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateMadecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.
It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.
Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan StearateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
