What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Dimethicone
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Nylon-12
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLaureth-23
CleansingHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingLaureth-4
EmulsifyingMethylparaben
PreservativePropylparaben
PreservativeEthylparaben
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningLaureth-7
EmulsifyingSodium Methylparaben
PreservativeSodium Propylparaben
PreservativeSodium Ethylparaben
PreservativeCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantPolyacrylamide
BHA
AntioxidantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Nylon-12, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Parfum, Laureth-4, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, BHT, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polysorbate 20, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Bisabolol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Laureth-7, Sodium Methylparaben, Sodium Propylparaben, Sodium Ethylparaben, Copper Gluconate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Polyacrylamide, BHA, CI 19140
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientLaureth-4
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSodium Citrate
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Laureth-4, Mica, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, Sodium Citrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLaureth-4 is created by reacting ethylene oxide with Lauryl Alcohol. It is a surfactant and emulsifier.
Surfactants reduce the surface tension of ingredients so they can mix better. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients such as oil and water from separating.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water