What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPropanediol
SolventDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Behenate
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningSwertia Chirata Leaf Extract
AstringentRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolyacrylamide
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentAllyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Disodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glycerin, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, Propanediol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Behenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Swertia Chirata Leaf Extract, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Stearyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isododecane, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylamide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Laureth-7, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Hydroxystearate
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientTetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Stearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCeteareth-20
CleansingSteareth-10
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentGlycolic Acid
BufferingSqualane
EmollientParfum
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPropylparaben
PreservativeRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Steareth-10, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Glycolic Acid, Squalane, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methylparaben, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Propylparaben, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 60, Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Copper Gluconate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water