What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientSteareth-2
EmulsifyingSteareth-21
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate
EmulsifyingMadecassoside
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Oil
MaskingLecithin
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC13-15 Alkane
SolventDisodium EDTA
Aminomethyl Propanol
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Linoleic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, BHA, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Madecassoside, Bisabolol, Chamomilla Recutita Oil, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C13-15 Alkane, Disodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol
Water
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantLinoleic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientLinolenic Acid
CleansingArachidonic Acid
EmollientAzelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPhloretin
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialBHA
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantEthoxydiglycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Bisabolol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePoloxamer 407
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Retinol, Alpha-Arbutin, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Linoleic Acid, Lecithin, Linolenic Acid, Arachidonic Acid, Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phloretin, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, BHA, BHT, Ethoxydiglycol, Disodium EDTA, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 80, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 407, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholThe ingredient "BHA" stands for butylated hydroxyanisole. If you are looking for the beta-hydroxy acid, aka as Salicylic Acid, click here.
In cosmetics, butylated hydroxyanisole is used as a perservative. It also has antioxidant properties. The concentrations usually used in skincare are low and do not penetrate through skin.
It is only considered a carcinogen when ingested.
Butylated Hydroxyanisole is a synthetic and waxy petrochemical. It is used as a preservative in foods and cosmetics.
Learn more about BHABHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTBisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololDehydroacetic Acid is a synthetic preservative that keeps your products safe from microbes.
As an organic acid, it penetrates microbial cell walls and disrupts cellular metabolism. This makes it effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold.
It is effective at low concentrations (<0.6%). Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-photosensitizing.
Learn more about Dehydroacetic AcidDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTALecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinLinoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.
Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.
Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.
One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.
This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.
Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.
Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.
Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.
Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.
Learn more about Linoleic AcidPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Learn more about Polysorbate 80Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water