Creamy Retinol Versus Principia Sérum Facial PM-10
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Alpha-Arbutin
Antioxidant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycerin
Humectant
Linoleic Acid
Cleansing
Lecithin
Emollient
Linolenic Acid
Cleansing
Arachidonic Acid
Emollient
Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPhloretin
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
BHA
Antioxidant
BHT
Antioxidant
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 80
Emulsifying
Dehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Poloxamer 407
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Retinol, Alpha-Arbutin, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Linoleic Acid, Lecithin, Linolenic Acid, Arachidonic Acid, Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phloretin, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, BHA, BHT, Ethoxydiglycol, Disodium EDTA, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 80, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Poloxamer 407, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingIngredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is also known as pal-GHK. It is made up of 3 amino acids and palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
This peptide is as a signal peptide, meaning it tells the skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the key protein that helps form the skin's structure and keep it plump, firm, and hydrated.
By boosting collagen production, this ingredient supports a stronger skin barrier and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
You'll most likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex. While results from in-house testing should be viewed cautiously, this peptide duo is among the most studied and widely used in modern skincare.
Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
