What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientArginine
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientSucrose
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, BHT, Cyclohexasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBoswellia Serrata Resin Extract
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPropanediol
SolventSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSucrose Dilaurate
EmollientSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Umbelliformis Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
EmollientNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTropolone
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingGanoderma Lucidum Extract
Skin ProtectingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantWater, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Maltodextrin, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Pisum Sativum Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Retinol, BHT, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Bakuchiol, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Lactic Acid, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Tocopheryl Acetate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ferulic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water