What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Umbelliformis Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantOcimum Basilicum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
MaskingCyclodextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAlcohol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Mandelic Acid, Phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Beta-Glucan, Lactic Acid, Retinal, Sodium Gluconate, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Lonicera Japonica Callus Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Cyclodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Alcohol, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Extract
MaskingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningChrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingDimethyl Sulfone
SolventLactic Acid
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningFulvic Acid
Skin ConditioningPrunus Serotina Bark Extract
MaskingRetinal
Skin ConditioningHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCyclodextrin
AbsorbentAlcohol
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Phosphatidylcholine, Pentylene Glycol, Asiaticoside, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Niacinamide, Dimethyl Sulfone, Lactic Acid, Panthenol, Pyridoxine Hcl, Fulvic Acid, Prunus Serotina Bark Extract, Retinal, Hydroxyproline, Beta-Glucan, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Cinnamomum Camphora Bark Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Cyclodextrin, Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholBenzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanChlorella Vulgaris Extract comes from a green microalga. It is hydrating and contains antioxidants.
Studies also show Chlorella Vulgaris may help in rebuilding collagen and elastin. This ingredient is made up of lipids, carbohydrates, and chlorophyll.
Fun fact: This ingredient is commonly used as food additive in Japan.
Learn more about Chlorella Vulgaris ExtractCyclodextrins are ring-shaped sugar molecules made from starch. It is used to stabilize, protect, and slowly release active ingredients.
This ingredient can help prevent oxidation, reduce irritation from strong actives, and make certain ingredients absorb better once applied.
Once applied to your skin, enzymes gradually break down the cyclodextrin "ring"; this releases the active ingredient in a controlled way.
Learn more about CyclodextrinWe don't have a description for Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract yet.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholinePotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateRetinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalCloudberry seed oil is rich in vitamin C, citric acid, malic acid, vitamin C, and beta-carotene.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum