What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCyclodextrin
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSodium Hydroxide
BufferingRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingRosmarinyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCaffeyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGallyl Glucoside
AntioxidantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinal, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Rosmarinyl Glucoside, Caffeyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Saccharide Isomerate
Water
Skin ConditioningMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Umbelliformis Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantOcimum Basilicum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
MaskingCyclodextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAlcohol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Mandelic Acid, Phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Beta-Glucan, Lactic Acid, Retinal, Sodium Gluconate, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Lonicera Japonica Callus Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Cyclodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Alcohol, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cyclodextrins are ring-shaped sugar molecules made from starch. It is used to stabilize, protect, and slowly release active ingredients.
This ingredient can help prevent oxidation, reduce irritation from strong actives, and make certain ingredients absorb better once applied.
Once applied to your skin, enzymes gradually break down the cyclodextrin "ring"; this releases the active ingredient in a controlled way.
Learn more about CyclodextrinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalCloudberry seed oil is rich in vitamin C, citric acid, malic acid, vitamin C, and beta-carotene.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum