What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingXylitol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingC12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantDextrin
AbsorbentAdenosine
Skin ConditioningMethyl Diisopropyl Propionamide
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Cyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract
AntioxidantVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentFragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
AstringentPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Collagen Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantGlutathione
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-3
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Xylitol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycereth-26, Ectoin, Carbomer, C12-14 Alketh-12, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Dextrin, Adenosine, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Disodium EDTA, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Glycerin, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Sorbitan Laurate, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Glutamine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Collagen Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sodium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Glutathione, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-3, Oligopeptide-2, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-4 Laurate
EmulsifyingNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate-13
Stearyl Alcohol
EmollientSimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Dextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Sodium DNA
Skin ConditioningThioctic Acid
AntioxidantPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyacrylate-13, Stearyl Alcohol, Simethicone, Polysorbate 60, Synthetic Beeswax, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyisobutene, Chlorphenesin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Octyldodecanol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Carnosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Glutathione, Sodium DNA, Thioctic Acid, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Caprylyl Glycol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Learn more about DextrinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water