This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantOxidized Starch Acetate
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantMentha Piperita Extract
CleansingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
ChelatingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Polyacrylate Starch
AbsorbentSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Zea Mays Starch, Isopropyl Isostearate, Propylene Glycol, Oxidized Starch Acetate, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Mentha Piperita Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Distearate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingParfum
MaskingBenzoic Acid
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Parfum, Benzoic Acid, Limonene, Dehydroacetic Acid, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Linalool, Citral, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water