What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeCetyl Esters
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientParfum
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPEG-14m
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingGlycine
BufferingPolyquaternium-7
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientMalic Acid
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantMethylchloroisothiazolinone
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Esters, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-14m, Dimethiconol, Sodium Citrate, Glycine, Polyquaternium-7, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Malic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearoxypropyl Dimethylamine
Lactic Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientHydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
HumectantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSuccinic Acid
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantIsostearyl Glyceryl Ether
Skin ConditioningLanolin Acid
CleansingBis-Methoxypropylamido Isodocosane
EmollientArginine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingAspartic Acid
MaskingSerine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Histidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCananga Odorata Flower Extract
PerfumingSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCeteareth-7
EmulsifyingCeteareth-25
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPCA
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingAmodimethicone
Benzyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearoxypropyl Dimethylamine, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Succinic Acid, Malic Acid, Polyglycerin-3, Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether, Lanolin Acid, Bis-Methoxypropylamido Isodocosane, Arginine, Glycine, Aspartic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-25, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Amodimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the âgoodâ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Hydrolyzed Keratin is derived from keratin. Keratin is a large protein that is naturally found in our hair and skin.
Studies show keratin is able to seal broken hair cuticles, helping to prevent split ends and breakage.
As a humectant, hydrolyzed keratin helps draw moisture from the air to your hair and skin. This helps keep your skin and hair hydrated.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed KeratinMalic Acid is an acid with both AHA and BHA properties, but is considered an AHA because its AHA properties are stronger.
It can be naturally found in unripe fruit and especially apples (its name from the latin word "malum", meaning apple!).
Like other AHAs, malic acid gently removes the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin underneath.
Though itâs considered milder and less potent than glycolic or lactic acid, it can help improve:
Due to its larger molecular structure, it penetrates the skin more slowly and is often used in combination with other AHAs to enhance their overall effectiveness.
Malic acid often plays a role in balancing a productâs pH and is usually included in small amounts (around 1-2%) as a supporting exfoliant.
As with all exfoliating acids, you should wear sunscreen daily when using malic acid to protect your newly resurfaced skin.
Fun fact: Malic acid is the compound responsible for the tart flavor of apples and other sour fruits.
While research on malic acid is limited compared to glycolic or lactic acid, itâs still a safe and mild exfoliant.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Malic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water