This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWithania Somnifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientPullulan
Sorbitol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasivePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantScenedesmus Rubescens Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCI 77480
Cosmetic ColorantCitric Acid
BufferingGlutathione
Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Bisabolol, Ferulic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Sorbitol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Ascorbic Acid, CI 77480, Citric Acid, Glutathione
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMicrocitrus Australasica Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingCitrus Sinensis Peel Extract
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract
AbrasiveEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLysolecithin
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Sinensis Peel Extract, Tocopherol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Lysolecithin, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Metabisulfite
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePolyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.
On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum