What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Piroctone Olamine
Preservative
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Pisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLentinus Edodes Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingPolygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
Antioxidant
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Lecithin
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate
Emollient
Tribehenin
Emollient
Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate
Citric Acid
Buffering
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Piroctone Olamine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol, Pisum Sativum Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate, Tribehenin, Tetrasodium Iminodisuccinate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Niacinamide
Smoothing
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Psoralea Corylifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
Masking
Artemisia Vulgaris Oil
Perfuming
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
RefreshingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Masking
Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Psoralea Corylifolia Fruit Extract, Carbomer, Arginine, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
