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What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

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Expensive 75% Drying 50% Doesn't Work 25%
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Irritating 100% Strong Scent 100%

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Learn more about Bisabolol
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin
UV Absorber, UV Filter

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (aka Ensulizole) is a chemical UV filter that's a bit of a unicorn in the sunscreen world: it's water-soluble where most organic filters are oil-based.

Being water-solubility is the headline because it feels lightweight and non-greasy in formulations. This makes it suitable for oily or acne-prone skin in gel/water-based products.

Ensulizole primarily protects against UVB radiation (~290-320 nm) but offers some minimal UVA protection. You'll see it often paired with UVA filters to ensure broad-spectrum coverage.

Interestingly, it can help boost SPF and stabilize finicky filters when combined with other UVB absorbers.

The FDA has approved this ingredient for OTC sunscreens up to 4% and the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products concluded that up to 8% is allowed in cosmetics.

In practice, you'll most likely see it formulated around 1-4%.

Safety-wise, it is neither irritating nor sensitizing, shows no photoallergenic potential, and in vivo tests show no mutagenic potential.

You might see discussion about the "double-edged sword" effect of this ingredient. This is because lab tests done on cells in a dish (not on humans) showed Ensulizole can create small amounts of unstable molecules called free radicals that can damage DNA when exposed to UV light. It sounds scary but this is just test-tube research. There hasn't been proof that this can happen when used in a sunscreen on skin.

Learn more about Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

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