What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
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Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDiphenyl Dimethicone
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCeteareth-20
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyacrylate-13
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyisobutene
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventParfum
MaskingCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingIllicium Verum Fruit Extract
PerfumingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 60, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Parfum, CI 45410, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, CI 77891, Sorbitan Isostearate, CI 19140, CI 17200, Polysorbate 20, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, CI 42090, Aluminum Hydroxide, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningDiphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientTrimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialEthylcellulose
Polysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate-13
PPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPolyisobutene
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Octyldodecanol, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Alcohol, Ethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, CI 16035, CI 15985, CI 17200, CI 19140, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
CI 17200 is a synthetic, water-soluble, reddish-pink dye. It is used purely as a cosmetic colorant.
In the US, the FDA permits this ingredient in cosmetics but it is not approved for use around the eyes while the EU allows this to be used in all cosmetic products.
The FDA requires batch-to-batch certification for this ingredient that is held to a pretty rigorous standard. That means the CI 17200 in your cosmetics has been tested and approved before it ever reaches you.
Contact allergy to cosmetic-grade dyes used at low concentrations are uncommon but has been documented before.
This ingredient also goes by the name D&C RED NO. 33.
CI 17200 has a comedogenic rating of 1 and an irritancy rating of 2 on a scale of 0-5. This is based on peer-reviewed research from the man who invented the comedogenic scale.
A 1 on the comedogenic scale is about as low as it gets without being a flat zero, and makes sense for CI 17200.
It's a water-soluble dye used at very small concentrations (typically 0.001-0.1%), so it dissolves into the water phase of a formula rather than sitting on your skin the way an oil or wax would.
The irritancy rating of 2 reflects that, like most synthetic dyes, there's a small possibility of mild irritation ( particularly for people with existing dye sensitivities).
For the vast majority of people, it's a non-issue at typical use levels.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Just so you know, the FDA ban on Red Dye No. 3 refers to CI 45430, not this ingredient. CI 45430 and CI 17200 are different chemical compounds with distinct safety and regulatory histories.
It's also worth noting that Red No. 3 (CI 45430) was already banned from cosmetics back in 1990, so the 2025 action just extended the ban to food and oral drugs. CI 17200 was never part of any of this.
Learn more about CI 17200CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyacrylate-13 is a type of acrylate polymer. Acrylate polymers are commonly used as adhesives in cosmetics.
Polyacrylate-13 creates a film to protect the skin. It is also used to thicken and stabilize a product. It works by making water a gel-like consistency. This gel consistency helps suspend particles.
Polyacrylate-13 is a copolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate monomers
Learn more about Polyacrylate-13Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.
It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.
Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.
Learn more about PolyisobutenePolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water