What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantAphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract
HumectantTremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Emulsion StabilisingTrehalose
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingCI 42051
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Trehalose, Panthenol, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Sucrose, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Citric Acid, CI 42051
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientPropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingFructose
HumectantGlucose
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningMaltose
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium PCA
HumectantSphingolipids
EmollientSpirulina Platensis Extract
Skin ProtectingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantTrehalose
HumectantUrea
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantP-Anisic Acid
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Propanediol, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Fructose, Glucose, Glycerin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Maltose, Panthenol, Parfum, Pentylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Sphingolipids, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tocopherol, Trehalose, Urea, Hydroxyacetophenone, P-Anisic Acid, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerTrehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Learn more about TrehaloseWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water