Esmi Skin Minerals Hydra-Fluid Moisturizer Versus Esmi Skin Minerals Calming Probiotic Skin Mylk Moisturiser
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Saccharide Isomerate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSqualane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingBetaine
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientClitoria Ternatea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSyzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract
AntioxidantKunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSphingolipids
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingTanacetum Annuum Flower Oil
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Betaine, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract, Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract, Kunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Sodium Citrate, Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantVinyldimethicone
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Palmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantLauryl Glucoside
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientLactobacillus Lysate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Saccharide Isomerate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyacetophenone, Vinyldimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Micrococcus Lysate, Allantoin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tocopherol, Lauryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Lactobacillus Lysate, Phenoxyethanol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water