What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Petrolatum
Emollient
Aroma
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
AstringentHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Emollient
Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract
Masking
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Sorbitan Oleate
Emulsifying
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Phytosterols
Skin Conditioning
Silica
Abrasive
Citric Acid
Buffering
Octyldodecanol, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Petrolatum, Aroma, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Jojoba Esters, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Polyglycerin-3, Phytosterols, Silica, Citric Acid
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Nylon-12
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Aroma
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
Emollient
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPolyglycerin-3
Humectant
Propylene Carbonate
SolventTocopherol
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Limonene
Perfuming
Menthol 0.625%
Masking
Camphor 0.5%
Masking
Allantoin 0.5%
Skin Conditioning
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Jojoba Esters, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, Nylon-12, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Aroma, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Polyglycerin-3, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Limonene, Menthol 0.625%, Camphor 0.5%, Allantoin 0.5%
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as mimosa flower wax. It is a plant-derived vegetable wax with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
One manufacturer describes this ingredient as a mix of free fatty alcohols, saturated monoesters, and odd-numbered long hydrocarbon chains. This profile is consistent with a wax that can feel like an occlusive. This mixture of compounds can make this ingredient not fungal acne, or malassezia folliculitis, safe.
Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.
The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.
Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:
“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”
INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".
However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.
In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.
Learn more about AromaBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a synthetic emollient that works as a lanolin substitute.
This ingredient is a great vegan option for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients.
It mostly stays on the surface of skin where it helps hydrate due to its large molecular size and low water solubility.
Due to it being derived from fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia or fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxJojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Learn more about Jojoba EstersOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Polyglycerin-3 is a 3-unit glycerin polymer.
Like glycerin, this ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing water to it.
Having moisturized skin helps improve the skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.
Learn more about Polyglycerin-3This ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Like other plant butters, Cacao seed butter is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. By creating a barrier to trap moisture in, emollients help keep your skin hydrated.
Cacao seed butter contains antioxidants known as polyphenols. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules by stabilizing them. Unstable free-radicals may cause damage to your skin cells. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter can be bad for acne prone skin.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
