Dr. Brandt Skincare Do Not Age with Dr. Brandt Time Defying Cream Versus Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Retinol Regenerating Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Glucosyl Ceramide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Babassuate
EmollientDibutyl Adipate
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Tocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingDextran
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningZinc Ricinoleate
Juniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingGeranium Maculatum Oil
MaskingLavandula Hybrida Oil
EmollientPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingVetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil
MaskingLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingGlucosyl Ceramide
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Babassuate, Dibutyl Adipate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Zinc Ricinoleate, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Geranium Maculatum Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Glucosyl Ceramide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Carbomer
Water
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCellulose
AbsorbentSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingRetinol
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Behenate, Ceteareth-20, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cellulose, Sodium Polyacrylate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Chlorphenesin, Polysorbate 20, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Retinol, BHT, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-7, Ascorbic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholChlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Learn more about ChlorphenesinCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water