What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingLeptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil
TonicNigella Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientPhyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
HumectantHoney Extract
HumectantLactobacillus/Salix Purpurea Bark Ferment Extract
AntiseborrhoeicRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingHydrastis Canadensis Root Extract
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingEugenia Caryophyllus Oil
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingMenthol
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningSolidago Canadensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingTetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes
MaskingVanillin
MaskingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Honey Extract, Lactobacillus/Salix Purpurea Bark Ferment Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Hydrastis Canadensis Root Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Lactobacillus, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Menthol, Glycerin, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Water, Solidago Canadensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, Vanillin
Glycine Soja Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Oil
EmollientPunica Granatum Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantGaultheria Procumbens Leaf Oil
MaskingMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentLavandula Spica Flower Oil
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingMenthol
MaskingCymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil
MaskingGlycine Soja Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Lavandula Spica Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Menthol, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilThis essential oil is steam-distilled from peppermint leaves, also known as peppermint oil. It's mainly used for scent in skincare but also provides that signature "cooling" sensation.
Peppermint oil is a "feels amazing" ingredient until it doesn't.
At higher doses or for those with sensitive skin, methol-type cooling can quickly turn into burning/irritation. It can also trigger irritant dermatitis or even allergic contact dermatitis. In a large patch-test dataset, peppermint oil had a low but positive rate for this.
In cosmetics, Cosmetic Safety Reviews (CIR) concludes that peppermint oil is safe to use when formulated to be non-sensitizing with some restrictions; for instance, pulegone, a naturally occurring component of peppermint oil, should not exceed 1%.
Since peppermint oil contains fragrance allergens such as limonene, linalool, and menthol, it can be sensitizing for those with rosacea, eczema, a broken skin barrier, or just sensitive skin in general.
In Japan, this ingredient is known as Hakka Yu.
Learn more about Mentha Piperita OilMenthol is a compound found in mint plants, such as peppermint. In its pure form, it is a clear crystalline substance.
Menthol is known for its cooling sensation; however, the cooling is actually from your skin being sensitized. Menthol can worsen rosacea. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Menthol also has antimicrobial properties.
Learn more about MentholThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil is an essential oil also known as rosemary essential oil. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning agent and also acts as a natural fragrance that gives products a fresh/herby smell.
The oil is a mix of over 100 volatile compounds with 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, camphor, and verbenone usually leading the pack.
Lab studies credit this oil with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activity. Some research even show rosemary compounds calming acne-related inflammation.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be nonsensitizing.
Since this is a fragrant essential oil, the main concern is for fragrance-sensitive folks.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate