Camaleon Cosmetics Vitamin C Ultra Plus Serum Versus Clinians Siero Concentrato Illuminante With Vitamin C And AHA complex
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Citrus Limon Fruit Water
MaskingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventMethylpropanediol
SolventXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientPullulan
Citric Acid
BufferingSilica
AbrasiveParfum
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater
Skin ConditioningC8-12 Acid Triglyceride
Skin ConditioningDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingBisabolol
AntioxidantSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tin Oxide
AbrasiveCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Sulfate
Sodium Chloride
MaskingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Glycerin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice, Niacinamide, Bisabolol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citric Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77891, CI 15985
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidHydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".
Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.
Limonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum