What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingPolybutene
Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingMenthol
MaskingAroma
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningDicalcium Phosphate
AbrasiveSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Silica Silylate
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingMenthyl Lactate
MaskingTribehenin
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSodium Saccharin
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Cera Microcristallina, Polybutene, Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax, Menthol, Aroma, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Dicalcium Phosphate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Silica Silylate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Menthyl Lactate, Tribehenin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Saccharin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Limonene, CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 77891, CI 15985
Isoamyl Laurate
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientDicalcium Phosphate
AbrasiveSilica
AbrasiveSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSilica Silylate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingEthyl Vanillin
MaskingTribehenin
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantIsoamyl Laurate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Dicalcium Phosphate, Silica, Synthetic Wax, C10-18 Triglycerides, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Kaolin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Synthetic Beeswax, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Silylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethyl Vanillin, Tribehenin, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 77491, CI 15850, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491This ingredient is a mineral salt of calcium and phosphate. It is mainly used as a mild abrasive and sometimes used to add opacity to a formula.
Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxHydrogenated Castor Oil (aka "castor wax") is what you get when castor oil is turned into a wax.
Its dominant fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, giving it both emollient and mild humectant properties.
According to EU CosIng, this ingredient helps soften skin, keep oil and water stay mixed, and thickens products.
Hydrogenated castor oil at 30% did not trigger a positive patch-test reaction and is well-tolerated.
Since this ingredient is based on an 18-carbon fatty acid, it falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on and may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Castor OilThis ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronatePentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateThis ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilSilica Silylate is a siloxane polymer, meaning it is made up of silicon and oxygen atoms. It is not soluble in water.
This ingredient is a white powder with oil-absorbing, emollient, and anticaking properties.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin