What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDiisopropyl Adipate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentSilica
AbrasiveC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantZinc PCA
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingPalmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientSodium Carbomer
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantGlucose
HumectantPhenylpropanol
MaskingPropanediol
SolventCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Sodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantWater, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Diisopropyl Adipate, Glycerin, Caprylyl Methicone, Arginine, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tranexamic Acid, Silica, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, C14-22 Alcohols, Butylene Glycol, Zinc PCA, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Physalis Angulata Extract, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Squalane, Sodium Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Glucose, Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Metabisulfite, BHT, BHA
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingRhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Stearyl Stearate
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingLactic Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Coco-Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Zinc PCA, Sorbitan Olivate, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Stearyl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Lactic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) comes from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine.
This ingredient has similar properties to azelaic acid; it can help reduce sebum production and soothe skin. PAD also inhibits tyrosinase activity to help brighten skin. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production.
A study from 2023 found 5% PAD combined with nicotinamide (a form of niacin) effectively reduced melanin production after 6 weeks.
Several studies from the 2010's also show PAD to be effective in alleviating symptoms of Rosacea.
Though this ingredient is considered a gentle active, higher amounts may result in irritation.
Unlike azelaic acid, this ingredient is water-soluble. This property makes it easier to formulate into skincare products.
Learn more about Potassium Azeloyl DiglycinatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA