What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingSorbityl Laurate
EmulsifyingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantUbiquinone
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientOlive Glycerides
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-5 Oleate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeParfum
MaskingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbityl Laurate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Olive Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, DMDM Hydantoin, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientLanolin
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Propylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeMethylparaben
PreservativeEthylparaben
PreservativeDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Lanolin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Trehalose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTADMDM Hydantoin has antimicrobial and antifungal properties. It is a preservative that works by slowly releasing formaldehyde over time.
So what's formaldehyde?
DMDM Hydantoin is approved for use in cosmetics all around the world.
In the EU, this ingredient is allowed in personal products up to 0.6 percent.
You might have heard of the class-action lawsuit about it causing hair loss. According to chemists, there has not been a link found between this ingredient and hair loss.
The Hydantoin part of this ingredient is created by reacting glycolic acid and urea.
You can check out alternatives to Dmdm Hydantoin:
phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate.
Ethylhexyl Stearate mainly acts as an emollient that also helps reduce the greasiness of oils in a formula. As an emollient, it softens and hydrates your skin by locking moisture in.
Because Ethylhexyl Stearate contains a C18 fatty acid chain, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on C11-C24 fatty acids. If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.
This ingredient is an ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and stearic acid.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl StearateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Like other plant butters, Cacao seed butter is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. By creating a barrier to trap moisture in, emollients help keep your skin hydrated.
Cacao seed butter contains antioxidants known as polyphenols. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules by stabilizing them. Unstable free-radicals may cause damage to your skin cells. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter can be bad for acne prone skin.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed ButterTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water