What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSorbitol
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientOleyl Erucate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol, Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Erucate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Pyrus Malus Juice
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Juice
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientCapryloyl Glycerin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientPullulan
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Leaf Cell Extract
Skin ConditioningBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentAlgae Extract
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCitrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMenthol
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
Methyl Lactate
PerfumingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Camphora Oil
MaskingEthyl Linalool
MaskingCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingPyrus Malus Juice, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Pullulan, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Leaf Cell Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Algae Extract, Squalane, Panthenol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopherol, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexylglycerin, Menthol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Methyl Lactate, Caprylyl Glycol, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Water, Cinnamomum Camphora Oil, Ethyl Linalool, Citral, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate is a citric acid ester of glyceryl stearate.
It is an emulsifier, emollient, and a surfactant.
Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating. Common ingredients include oils and water, which do not mix naturally. Emulsifiers have properties that help keep ingredients such as these together.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
Surfactants help gather oils, dirt, and other pollutants from the skin. This helps them to be easily rinsed away.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate CitrateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum