Armani Beauty Crema Nera Acqua Pantelleria Hydra-Pumping Treatment Lotion Versus Orveda The Vital Sap
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCitrus Grandis
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-20
HumectantPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantTamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningMyrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract
EmollientPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientPotassium Chloride
Trehalose
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantMethylsilanol Mannuronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingRhamnose
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Sulfate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Disodium Phosphate
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingBHT
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantSorbic Acid
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Citrus Grandis, Butylene Glycol, PEG-20, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Potassium Chloride, Trehalose, Methyl Gluceth-20, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Rhamnose, Adenosine, Magnesium Sulfate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Disodium Phosphate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, BHT, Tocopherol, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 14700, CI 15985, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientEuglena Gracilis Extract
Skin ConditioningThermus Thermophillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantPhyllostachys Bambusoides Extract
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingParfum
MaskingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPapain
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingPhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningAlgin
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Euglena Gracilis Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Methyl Gluceth-20, Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Parfum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Chlorphenesin, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Papain, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Algin, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineBis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane belongs to the siloxanes and silicones classes. It is synthetically created and has a waxy composition.
This ingredient is a humectant and emollient, meaning it helps hydrate the skin. Humectants draw moisture to your skin, while emollients prevent moisture from escaping.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolChlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Learn more about ChlorphenesinCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMethyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water