What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingSodium Trimetaphosphate
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPropanediol
SolventAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingSilica
AbrasiveAcrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientOleic Acid
EmollientArachidic Acid
CleansingSphingolipids
EmollientWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Panthenol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cellulose Gum, Tromethamine, Sodium Trimetaphosphate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Propanediol, Adenosine, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Sodium Metaphosphate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cholesterol, Propylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Mannitol, Stearic Acid, Silica, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Sphingolipids
Propolis Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingRoyal Jelly Extract
Skin ConditioningSpirodela Polyrhiza Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPropolis Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Butylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Arginine, Water, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Adenosine
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water