What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Squalane
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientStearic Acid
Cleansing
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Phytosterols
Skin Conditioning
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Glucose
Humectant
Myristic Acid
Cleansing
Lauric Acid
Cleansing
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Water, Propanediol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diisostearyl Malate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Madecassoside, Phytosterols, Beta-Glucan, Glucose, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Propanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Sorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Trehalose
Humectant
Vinyldimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Arginine
Masking
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Calamine
AbsorbentHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbityl Laurate
Emulsifying
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningJasminum Officinale Flower Water
MaskingGlycol Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Betaine
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPrunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil
Masking
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingProtease
Exfoliating
Disodium EDTA
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trehalose, Vinyldimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Arginine, Madecassoside, Calamine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbityl Laurate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Synthetic Beeswax, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Water, Glycol Stearate Se, Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Protease, Disodium EDTA
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
