Truth & Beauty Smart Ageing Complex Versus K-Secret Seoul 1988 Serum Retinal Liposome 2% + Black Ginseng
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanax Ginseng Extract
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOleyl Erucate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate 1%
AntioxidantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids 0.5%
Skin ConditioningPanthenol 0.5%
Skin ConditioningBetaine 0.5%
HumectantTocopherol 0.5%
AntioxidantRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientBakuchiol 0.5%
AntimicrobialBiosaccharide Gum-1 0.3%
HumectantEctoin 0.3%
Skin ConditioningAllantoin 0.2%
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinal 0.03%
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleyl Erucate, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Triheptanoin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate 1%, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Phospholipids 0.5%, Panthenol 0.5%, Betaine 0.5%, Tocopherol 0.5%, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Lecithin, Bakuchiol 0.5%, Biosaccharide Gum-1 0.3%, Ectoin 0.3%, Allantoin 0.2%, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinal 0.03%, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingBetaine
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Cholesterol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCnidium Officinale Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingRehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sorbitan Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Retinal, Silica, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Bakuchiol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinRetinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol