What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCalcium Chloride
AstringentCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Powder
AbrasiveAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCalcium Titanium Borosilicate
AbrasiveSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tin Oxide
AbrasiveCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 75470
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantRuby Powder
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Calcium Chloride, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Allantoin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Betaine, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Titanium Borosilicate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 75470, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ruby Powder, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingChondrus Crispus Powder
AbrasivePotassium Chloride
Butylene Glycol
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMalt Extract
Skin ProtectingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentPrunella Vulgaris Extract
AntioxidantFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientNelumbo Nucifera Extract
Skin ConditioningLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantGlutathione
Cysteine
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGold
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Phosphate
BufferingParfum
MaskingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Potassium Chloride, Butylene Glycol, Allantoin, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Malt Extract, Beta-Glucan, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Dextrin, Prunella Vulgaris Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Glutathione, Cysteine, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Tocopheryl Acetate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Gold, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Parfum, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCeratonia Siliqua Gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree. You might know this ingredient as Carob Gum or Locust Bean Gum. It is used to stabilize other ingredients and improve the texture of products.
Carob gum is made up of long-chain polysaccharides. This makes it a natural thickener.
Yes! This ingredient comes from the seeds of a tree. The name 'Locust Bean Gum' can be misleading.
Learn more about Ceratonia Siliqua GumChondrus Crispus Powder is an exfoliant.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcellulosePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil comes from hydrogenated castor oil. It is a solubilizer and emulsifier.
As a solubilizer, it helps dissolve ingredients into a water-based version. It is also an emulsifer. Emulsifier help prevent oils and water from separating. Both these properties help create evenly-spread and uniform products.
Basically, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil helps hold ingredients together.
Learn more about PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSynthetic Fluorphlogopite is the synthethic version of mica. It consists of fluorine, aluminum and silicate.
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is used to add volume to products.
It is considered non-irritating on the skin.
Learn more about Synthetic FluorphlogopiteWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum