What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Squalane
Emollient
Isosorbide Dicaprylate
Skin ConditioningShea Butter Ethyl Esters
Emollient
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
Ethyl Linoleate
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Punica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin Conditioning
Swertia Chirata Extract
HumectantUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningEthyl Oleate
Emollient
Zingiber Officinale Root Oil
Masking
Canola Oil
Emollient
Ethyl Linolenate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Lecithin
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Trihydroxystearin
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Ethyl Palmitate
Emollient
Water
Skin ConditioningEthyl Stearate
Emollient
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Sorbitan Oleate
Emulsifying
Glucomannan
Skin ConditioningMethyl Nicotinate
SoothingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Squalane, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethyl Linoleate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Ethyl Oleate, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Canola Oil, Ethyl Linolenate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trihydroxystearin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethyl Palmitate, Water, Ethyl Stearate, Glyceryl Behenate, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Sorbitan Oleate, Glucomannan, Methyl Nicotinate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolybutene
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Tridecapeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning
Portulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tribehenin
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sucrose Cocoate
Emulsifying
Vanillin
Masking
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Glyceryl Behenate, Synthetic Beeswax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Tridecapeptide-1, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Lactic Acid, Tocopherol, Sucrose Cocoate, Vanillin, CI 15850
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateGlyceryl Behenate is an emollient and emulsifier.
It has a lipophilic-hydrophilic structure that lets it sit at the oil-water interface to keep emulsions stable while leaving skin feeling soft and smooth.
In pressed powder cosmetics, it double as a compacting agent.
This ingredient can be synthetically created or plant-derived. Safety-wise, it has a solid track record.
One thing to flag for fungal acne: since this ingredient is the monoester of behenic acid (C22), it falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Glyceryl BehenateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSynthetic beeswax is created to be identical in structure to beeswax without involving bees, making it a go-to for vegan formulas.
It's mainly used an an emulsion stabilizer and thickener.
This ingredient (alongside other synthetic waxes) have been concluded to be safe in cosmetics under the present practices.
Reported usage goes up to 18% and it is non-sensitizing.
Just one caveat for fungal acne: This ingredient is made up of C16-32 fatty acids and fatty acid esters. Part of this overlaps with the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on, so it's not fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic BeeswaxWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
