Pillowtalk Derm The Depuffer Arnica Roll-On Serum for Redness and Puffiness Versus Neova DNA Total Repair
This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Ergothioneine to calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningFraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningAgastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSilanetriol
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Maltodextrin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silanetriol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ergothioneine
AntioxidantXylitylglucoside
HumectantMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningArabidopsis Thaliana Extract
AntioxidantAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCassia Alata Leaf Extract
AstringentCitric Acid
BufferingBuddleja Davidii Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Lysate Extract
HumectantEvodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAnhydroxylitol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSqualane
EmollientXylitol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantDunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningCamphor
MaskingLecithin
EmollientPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantWater, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Saccharide Isomerate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ergothioneine, Xylitylglucoside, Micrococcus Lysate, Plankton Extract, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Buddleja Davidii Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Squalane, Xylitol, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Camphor, Lecithin, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, BHT
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.
This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.
The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.
Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.
Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:
This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.
Learn more about Avena Sativa Kernel ExtractButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Learn more about Hexylene GlycolThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water