What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV Absorber
Ethylhexyl Triazone
UV Absorber
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin Conditioning
Isopropyl Palmitate
Emollient
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientDibutyl Adipate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Distarch Phosphate
AbsorbentPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
UV Absorber
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Tapioca Starch
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV Filter
Glycerin
Humectant
Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
Bleaching
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCocoglycerides
Emollient
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Emollient
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Sulfate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Trisodium EDTA
Parfum
Masking
CI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantTocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Water, Alcohol Denat., Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dibutyl Adipate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Tapioca Starch, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cocoglycerides, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Sulfate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Trisodium EDTA, Parfum, CI 15985, CI 16035
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Glycerin
Humectant
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Propylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientTapioca Starch
Glycine Soja Germ Extract
EmollientGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Glyceryl Stearate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Tapioca Starch, Glycine Soja Germ Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Phenoxyethanol, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch used to help thicken a product.
It is also used in foods.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateTapioca starch is a thickening agent and is made from the cassava root, also known as yucca.
According to a manufacturer, it is an excellent talc replacement.
It is gluten-free.
Learn more about Tapioca StarchTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
