What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTapioca Starch
Glyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDimethicone
EmollientLaureth-23
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingArachidic Acid
CleansingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
Oleic Acid
EmollientSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCitrus Limon Juice
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingParfum
MaskingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Tapioca Starch, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Laureth-23, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium EDTA, Oleic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Maltodextrin, Citrus Limon Juice, Ascorbic Acid, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Citral, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Parfum, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCeresin
Emulsion StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventVolcanic Sand
Skin ConditioningSolanum Lycopersicum Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningDaphne Odora Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingOpuntia Ficus-Indica Callus Culture Extract
AntioxidantOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSilica
AbrasiveSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDistearyldimonium Chloride
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingSodium Chloride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientParfum
MaskingCitral
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ceresin, Glycerin, Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Propanediol, Volcanic Sand, Solanum Lycopersicum Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Daphne Odora Callus Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Callus Culture Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Benzyl Benzoate, Silica, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Parfum, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water