This brightening overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Glycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantIsopentyldiol
HumectantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Glucose
HumectantKojic Acid
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolyvinyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Isopentyldiol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Propanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Glucose, Kojic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glycine Soja Oil, Collagen Extract, Retinol
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPetrolatum
EmollientKojic Acid
AntioxidantRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin Conditioning2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBetaine
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPolyacrylamide
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLaureth-7
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingEthyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Hexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingTetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingWater, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Kojic Acid, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, 2-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Polyacrylamide, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Laureth-7, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl, Limonene, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Hexyl Cinnamal, Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinKojic Acid is a naturally occurring organic acid that is produced during the fermentation of certain fungi. It is one of the most well-studied brightening ingredients (tyrosinase inhibitors) out there.
That's why you'll see Kojic Acid in products that target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and general uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with other brightening actives like Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic Acid, and Vitamin C derivatives.
By latching onto the copper that the enzyme tyrosinase needs to function, Kojic Acid prevents less pigment from being made. It's so well-established that researchers regularly use it as the go-to benchmark when testing new brightening ingredients.
Some other perks include documented antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concluded Kojic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1% and the EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers it safe as a skin lightening agent at concentrations up to 0.7%.
One thing to know about Kojic Acid is that stability is its weak spot; it is sensitive to light, heat, and air exposure and will oxidize/turn brown in formulations. Its derivative, Kojic Dipalmitate, was developed as a stable alternative.
Some individuals have reported contact sensitization so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or sensitive skin.
Fun fact: It was first discovered in 1907 and naturally occurs in the production of sake, soy sauce, and miso.
Learn more about Kojic AcidRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum