What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethicone
EmollientBetaine
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantIsopropyl Palmitate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPolyisobutene
Parfum
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingRosa Hybrid Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 16185
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Isopropyl Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyacrylate-13, Allantoin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyisobutene, Parfum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Nonapeptide-1, Tetrapeptide-1, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, CI 16185
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Glycerides Polyglyceryl-10 Esters
EmollientBetaine
HumectantPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveSqualane
EmollientMadecassoside
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningAroma
Quaternium-73
Glycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Polyglyceryl-10 Esters, Betaine, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Squalane, Madecassoside, Retinol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Xanthan Gum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Retinyl Propionate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Aroma, Quaternium-73, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum