Charlotte Tilbury Magic Night Cream Versus Ziaja Goat’s Milk Night Cream

In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own) and your skin.

Beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.

People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.

Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.

The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.

There's some lab work behind its reputation; in one study, it acted as an antioxidant and calmed inflammation in human immune cells. But it also killed skin cells (keratinocytes) in a dish.

It stopped damaging those cells and still reduced swelling in mice when the researchers wrapped it in tiny capsules to slow its release.

One study that is quoted out of context frequently: clove oil killed human skin and blood vessel cells at levels as low as 0.03%, and about 73% of that came down to eugenol. Keep in mind those were bare cells sitting in a dish with no skin barrier in the way (which is a lot harsher than what happens on your actual face).

On concentrations, it is restricted to 0.64% in leave-on products + body products, 0.21% in baby + lip products, 2.5% in fine fragrance and 4.9% in rinse-off. Real formulas usually land far below those caps.

Allergy is the actual story with this ingredient. It is one of the eight markers dermatologists use for allergy testing, and the EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

It is also a prohapten, meaning it needs enzymatic activation in skin to become allergenic, so sensitivity varies between people.

Rates are modest but not trivial: in a classic EECDRG multicentre study, 13 of about 1,300 patch-tested patients reacted to eugenol, and in eugenol-allergic subjects the lowest positive patch test concentration was 0.031%, with 56% reacting in a 21-day repeated open application test at 0.5% to 2.7%.

Normal use levels are generally fine if you are not already sensitized.

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.