What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventDeoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingLecithin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Citric Acid
BufferingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPandanus Conoideus Fruit Oil
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Polyglutamate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingCananga Odorata Flower Oil
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Methyl Gluceth-20, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Caprylyl Methicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Bakuchiol, Pandanus Conoideus Fruit Oil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Polyglutamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water