What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water 78%
MaskingNiacinamide 5%
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantTranexamic Acid
Astringent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid Polypeptide
AntioxidantAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantArbutin
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantPullulan
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water 78%, Niacinamide 5%, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Water, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Persea Gratissima Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Arbutin, Bisabolol, Pullulan
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArbutin is a naturally occurring molecule (found in bearberry, cranberry, and blueberry) that is used in skincare as a gentle brightening agent to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Chemically, it is a sugar-bound form of hydroquinone.
It works mainly by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme your skin uses to make melanin. This means less new pigment gets produced over time.
There are two forms you'll see on labels: beta-arbutin (listed as just "Arbutin") and alpha-arbutin (the more stable and effective of the two).
The evidence behind this is solid: it's less cytotoxic to melanocytes than hydroquinone and comparably effective with kojic acid for hyperpigmentation.
One human study using a 10% solution reduced UVR-induced hyperpigmentation by 43.5% (jumping to 63.3% when paired with aloesin).
More recent clinical work backs it up too; a 2025 study on a 5% alpha-arbutin + 2% kojic acid cream found it comparable to triple combination prescription formulas but with lower recurrence for melasma.
Typical usage in cosmetics serums land in the 1-2% range.
It's a well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-photoreactive ingredient that also gives some antioxidant benefits too.
Learn more about ArbutinAscorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic Acid