Avène Very High Protection Fluid SPF 50+ (Normal To Sensitive Combination Skin) Versus Esmi Skin Minerals Calming Probiotic Skin Mylk Moisturiser
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Saccharide Isomerate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentPhenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine
StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
UV AbsorberPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTapioca Starch
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Benzoic Acid
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientParfum
MaskingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientGlyceryl Dibehenate
EmollientPPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether
EmulsifyingCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantTocopheryl Glucoside
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Oryza Sativa Starch, Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine, Glycerin, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Tapioca Starch, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Benzoic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Dibehenate, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, CI 17200, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tribehenin, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantVinyldimethicone
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Palmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantLauryl Glucoside
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientLactobacillus Lysate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Saccharide Isomerate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyacetophenone, Vinyldimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Micrococcus Lysate, Allantoin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tocopherol, Lauryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Lactobacillus Lysate, Phenoxyethanol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water