about-face The Illusionist Skin-Focused Concealer Versus Milk Makeup Future Fluid Creamy Hydrating Concealer
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeGlyceryl Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
SurfactantLysine
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialMagnesium Chloride
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Astringent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientChlorella Sorokiniana Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tribehenin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Aluminum Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lysine, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Magnesium Chloride, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorella Sorokiniana Extract, Tocopherol, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexyl Olivate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHeptyl Undecylenate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Isostearate
EmulsifyingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate
EmollientMagnesium Sulfate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningHedychium Coronarium Root Extract
MaskingEchium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingOrobanche Rapum Extract
Skin ProtectingCardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientSilica
AbrasivePropanediol
SolventMica
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Glycerin, Heptyl Undecylenate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, Magnesium Sulfate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Collagen Amino Acids, Caffeine, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Orobanche Rapum Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Propanediol, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water