What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Tribehenin
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Squalane
Emollient
Beta-Sitosterol
Emulsion Stabilising
Squalene
Emollient
Glucomannan
Skin ConditioningTrihydroxystearin
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Aroma
Ethyl Vanillin
MaskingPolybutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Synthetic Wax, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Bakuchiol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalane, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Glucomannan, Trihydroxystearin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Aroma, Ethyl Vanillin
Polybutene
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Parfum
Masking
Tribehenin
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Saccharin
MaskingLactic Acid
Buffering
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Vanillin
Masking
Polybutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Cera Microcristallina, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Sodium Saccharin, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Vanillin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybuteneSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin
