What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveTribehenin
EmollientSodium Saccharin
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Tribehenin, Sodium Saccharin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, BHT, CI 15850, CI 42090, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77891
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolybutene
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveOctyldodecanol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingTribehenin
EmollientStevioside
MaskingPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingIron Oxides
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is a fatty acid ester.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidMicrocrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybutenePolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxThis ingredient is also known as cupuacu butter. It is a plant butter made from the seeds of the cupuacu fruit and has skin conditioning properties.
Like other botanic butters, cupuacu butter works by reducing moisture loss and improving skin smoothness. Some research suggests it has an unusually high ability to interact with water in lab testing, which may help explain why products containing it can feel deeply hydrating.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated. However, those with very oily or clog-prone skin might prefer it in lighter formulations or lower concentrations.
Due to its fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.
Please note: Fungal acne is not caused by pore clogging. It is caused by an overgrowth of the Malassezia yeast on the skin. This yeast feeds on certain fatty acids.
Learn more about Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed ButterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTribehenin comes from glycerin and behenic acid.
It is used as an emollient, or moisturizer. Emollients form a thin barrier on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Tribehenin