What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventHylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingGlycerin
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientPullulan
Silica
AbrasiveSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Silica, Sodium Metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningCocoglycerides
EmollientPropanediol
SolventIsododecane
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-20
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantOligopeptide-24
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningHeptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Skin ConditioningD-Arginyl Tyrosinyl Ornithinyl Phenylalanine
Skin ConditioningCopper Heptapeptide-14 Pantothenate
Skin ConditioningCaesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAvena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningKappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAlgin
MaskingPichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate
HumectantAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingPullulan
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningSodium Oleate
CleansingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingUbiquinone
AntioxidantDextran
Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Phytate
Disodium EDTA
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativePolyvinyl Alcohol
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Cocoglycerides, Propanediol, Isododecane, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Oligopeptide-20, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-24, Pentapeptide-4, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, D-Arginyl Tyrosinyl Ornithinyl Phenylalanine, Copper Heptapeptide-14 Pantothenate, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Allantoin, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Algin, Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Pullulan, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Oleate, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Parfum, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Ubiquinone, Dextran, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Phytate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.
Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.
Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.
Learn more about PullulanWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water