What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPhytol
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingRetinyl Linoleate
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate
EmulsifyingOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingMyrtus Communis Leaf Extract
PerfumingDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingC18-36 Acid Glycol Ester
EmollientC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCanola Oil
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAroma
Beta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTridecane
PerfumingDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientUndecane
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethiconol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Phytol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Retinyl Linoleate, Ubiquinone, Bisabolol, Squalane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Retinol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Retinal, BHT, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Sorbitan Laurate, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Canola Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aroma, Beta-Carotene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tridecane, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Undecane
Dimethicone
EmollientCyclomethicone
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningHordeum Distichon Extract
Skin ProtectingTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingLavandula Stoechas Extract
MaskingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingDimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Lavandula Stoechas Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Phytosterol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is made up of Benzoic Acid and long chain alcohols. It has a low molecular weight.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an emollient and texture enhancer. Due to its solubility, it is often used in sunscreens to help evenly distribute active ingredients.
As an emollient, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate helps soften and hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on your skin that traps moisture within.
This ingredient has been reported to cause eye irritation.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeThis ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Dimethyl Isosorbide is a low-irritation solvent that helps deliver actives into your skin. It is created from glucose.
Research shows how well this ingredient works depends on the active and formulation rather than the concentration alone. This means adding more Dimethyl Isosorbide does not guarantee better penetration of ingredients into the skin.
This ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itās technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term āoil-freeā isnāt regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate