SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azulene Peptide 5 Soothing Cream Versus Skin&Lab Ectoin Recovery Gel Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ectoin and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventIsopentyldiol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingEthoxydiglycol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTrehalose
HumectantC12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningViola Mandshurica Flower Extract
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPullulan
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGuaiazulene
AntimicrobialSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
SurfactantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-15
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
ChelatingBisabolol
AntioxidantGlucose
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Isopentyldiol, Niacinamide, Ethoxydiglycol, Xylitol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Trehalose, C12-14 Alketh-12, Glyceryl Glucoside, Caffeine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Beta-Glucan, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ectoin, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Adenosine, Glycerin, Pullulan, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Guaiazulene, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-15, Tripeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Bisabolol, Glucose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Sodium PCA, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Phospholipids, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantEctoin
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
ChelatingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPotassium Laurate
EmulsifyingMadecassoside
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ectoin, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Panthenol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Potassium Laurate, Madecassoside
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolEctoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.
This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.
When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.
Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:
A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.
Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.
In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:
Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.
Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.
The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.
Learn more about EctoinEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Phytate is the sodium salt of Phytic acid, a compound that plants store phosphorus in. It's the plant-derived alternative to ingredients like Disodium EDTA.
In skincare, this ingredient is a chelator that grabs onto trace metal ions like iron and copper that sneak into formulas through water/raw materials.
Those metals speed up oxidation so binding them keeps oils, fragrance, and actives from going off, stops color changes, and helps the preservative system work harder.
Survey data shows usage levels range from 0.0099%-0.5% in leave-on products, 0.025%-0.3% in rinse-off, and up to 0.05% in eye-area products. Suppliers typically recommend a range between 0.05-0.5%.
Learn more about Sodium PhytateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water