What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientZinc PCA
HumectantEleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract
AstringentNiacinamide
SmoothingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSucrose Stearate
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCoconut Alcohol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Zinc PCA, Eleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sucrose Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Coconut Alcohol, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningGigartina Skottsbergii Extract
Skin ConditioningMacrocystis Pyrifera
Algae
Skin ConditioningUndaria Pinnatifida Vesicles
HumectantVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSaccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingSaccharomyces/Manganese Ferment
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSaccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Skin ConditioningMyrtus Communis Leaf Oil
PerfumingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientThymus Vulgaris Oil
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCupressus Sempervirens Oil
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
SurfactantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentLonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingWater, Gigartina Skottsbergii Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera, Algae, Undaria Pinnatifida Vesicles, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces/Manganese Ferment, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Myrtus Communis Leaf Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Thymus Vulgaris Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Stearic Acid, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Citric Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Lonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilVitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.
The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.
Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.
The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum