What's inside
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSorbitol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Glycerin
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitol, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citral, Limonene, Citronellol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialJojoba Esters
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingLavandula Hybrida Oil
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsohexadecane
EmollientCanarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSteareth-2
EmulsifyingSteareth-21
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingLimonene
PerfumingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 60
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Jojoba Esters, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isohexadecane, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Stearic Acid, Limonene, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.
This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.
Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).
Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.
The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Seed OilCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimonenePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water